The first time The Age Young Chef of the Year Award was announced was at the launch of the 2002 Good Food Guide. Since then, 15 chefs have become members of this exclusive club. At first, a judging panel decided the award. Now, there are application forms, nominations, questionnaires and interviews by industry mentors Alla Wolf Tasker and Guy Grossi (alongside a changing roster of chefs that has included Philippe Mouchel, Andrew McConnell and Neil Perry). It's a prestigious award and, for many, a career-defining one. So who are the past winners and where are they now?
2002 - Andrew and Matt McConnell, then, diningroom 211
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What we said: ''… The brothers McConnell labour with love to produce fresh-faced, globally roaming, vibrant new food.''
Where are they now? Andrew is one of the most prolific and successful chef-restaurateurs in Melbourne. His roster of restaurants includes Cumulus Inc, Cumulus Up, Cutler & Co, Golden Fields, Builders Arms and Moon Under Water.
Matt spent time away from Melbourne, then returned to open Bar Lourinha, one of the first restaurant-bar hybrids in the city. He has since opened two businesses in Gertrude Street: Casa Ciuccio and Cantina Della Casa.
How did winning the award affect your career? Andrew: ''It was the first year of owning my own business, and so of course winning the award was an incredible boost for that, but I think the best thing about it was the validation. When you're a young chef, you're always questioning whether you're doing the right thing, and an award like this gives you a boost, a confidence.''
Matt: ''It was a great honour and an incredible surprise, an affirmation not just of the hard work you've put in but the team you've assembled to back you up. It didn't completely set us up, but it paved the way for us to continue going in the directions we were going, and it brought an audience to our tables.
2003 - Emma Mackay and Daniel Wilson, then Blake's Cafeteria
What we said: ''… Some of the best-tasting, most forward-thinking food in town.''
Where are they now? Mackay develops and teaches short courses at William Angliss, Queen Victoria Market and others, and also runs an ''event cake'' business called Cakes of Our Lives.
Wilson is the chef and co-owner of Fitzroy's Huxtable restaurant, the Huxtaburger burger joints and a cosy little bar called Bill's.
How did winning the award affect your career? Mackay: ''In retrospect, I think I was a bit overwhelmed by it at the time. I began to question whether I was working to get good press, or working to cook nice food. It was a bit confusing but when it's gone you go: 'Oh, that was actually quite nice.' It was a huge honour.''
Wilson: ''The year after we won there were lots of offers to do media and that sort of thing. It didn't last long after the initial flurry.''
2004 - George Calombaris, then Reserve
What we said: ''This driven bloke is one to watch.''
Where is he now? MasterChef, of course, but also, always, at restaurants. His flagship Press Club is being transformed into a modern Greek diner called Gazi, he's opening a souvlaki joint in Collingwood, a test kitchen in the city and a small fine diner later in 2013. And that's not forgetting greater or lesser interests in Hellenic Republic, Mamababa, St Katherine's and PM24.
How did winning the award affect your career? ''I was so wet behind the ears that I didn't even know what the Good Food Guide Awards were until it was explained to me on the way there. So getting the young chef award plus best new restaurant and two hats completely blew me away. It affected my career big time. It was one of those signposts that energise you and tell you that you're doing the right thing.''
2005 - Robin Wickens, then Interlude
What we said: ''… A whiz in his Eurocentric kitchen [and] master of his own domain.''
Where is he now? After Interlude closed, Wickens worked for a while at the Deanery in the city before making a move to Apollo Bay, where he owns and runs a provedore and deli called Wickens.
How did winning the award affect your career? ''It certainly brings you a lot of attention, which was good for business, but it does put you in a bracket where you're constantly expected to do media and events. That was a side of it I didn't enjoy. I'd much rather be in the kitchen and so turned a lot of these things down, and I think there was a bit of a backlash against that. Part of my decision to leave Melbourne was to get away from that kind of spotlight.''
2006 - Tim Saffery, then The Court House
What we said: ''… Takes gastropub dining to the next level.''
Where is he now? A hard man to track down, Saffery lives in New South Wales and is now a farmer with a range of crops that includes garlic and herbs.
2007 - Dallas Cuddy, then Verge
What we said: ''Food that's always inventive, exciting and, above all, delicious.''
Where is he now? After the closure of Verge, Cuddy moved to Singapore where he is head chef at The Prime Society, a contemporary steakhouse and grill.
How did winning the award affect your career? ''Winning the award certainly helped my career, mostly in terms of self-confidence. Like all chefs I worked very hard to get where I am but our jobs are all about working as a team … without them there would have been no award.''
2008 - Adam D'Sylva, then Pearl
What we said: ''… A chef who will inevitably take centre stage.''
Where is he now? D'Sylva is co-owner and chef at Coda and has recently opened a second restaurant with the Coda team, a modern Indian restaurant called Tonka.
How did winning the award affect your career? ''It was a pivotal moment in my career. It gives you the confidence, the credibility and a pat on the back, but it also fast-tracks you onto the map, which is half the struggle.''
2009 - Chris Donnellan, then Gingerboy, Justin Wise, then The Press Club
What we said: ''… Both show the same level of total dedication to their careers.''
Where are they now? Donnellan moved to Singapore after leaving Gingerboy and now lives in Vietnam. He plans to return to Melbourne soon and has a venture in mind.
Wise is head chef at the one-hatted The Point.
How did winning the award affect your career? Donnellan: ''I was young when I entered the competition, but I knew what direction I wanted to head in and what cuisine I wanted to cook. I got more out of the meeting and interview with Alla Wolf Tasker and Guy Grossi than anything.
Wise: ''It was a funny night, to be honest, because the year that I won the award was the same year that the restaurant lost a hat, so it was a bit of a weird feeling. But the award itself has been a massive boost. It says to people that you are working at that kind of level and it also works as encouragement to keep pushing forward.''
2010 - Nicolas Poelaert, Embrasse
What we said: ''His passion, imagination and commitment won over our judges.''
Where is he now? After closing Embrasse in 2012, Poelaert teamed up with the guys from Gerald's Bar at their city restaurant Brooks.
How did winning the award affect your career? ''It really helped the business side of things for me because I had just arrived back from overseas and it was like starting from scratch. Getting that award gave me confidence in myself and opened some doors for me.''
2011 - Michael Fox, Cecconi's Cantina
What we said: ''… No flash in the pan.''
Where is he now? After opening Henry and the Fox with Paul Mathis, Fox has hooked up with the folk behind the People's Market and the Order of Melbourne.
How did winning the award affect your career? ''It's really put me on the map. Thankfully, I had done a lot of hard work to get there, so it wasn't like I'd been cooking for two years and all of a sudden I'm under the spotlight. I had planned my career quite carefully, and so it came at a really good time for me.''
2012 - Josh Murphy, Cumulus Inc
What we said: ''… Poise, professionalism and dedication.''
Where is he now? Murphy is co-owner (with former boss Andrew McConnell) and head chef of the Builder's Arms and the innovative Moon Under Water.
How did winning the award affect your career? ''It came at a good time for me in terms of going into my own business. And I really liked the structure of the awards … that it was more about running a business than about cooking food.''
2013 - Mark Briggs, The Sharing House
What we said: ''… In a league of his own.''
Where is he now? Since The Sharing House closed, Briggs has been doing consultancy work and helping out at Yarraville's Dig A Pony. The next step, he says, is his own place.
How did winning the award affect your career? Even though I was one of the finalists, I never expected to win because I didn't get an invitation to the actual awards - it went missing, so I presumed that meant it would go to somebody else. There wasn't a massive effect in terms of people ringing up with offers and the reservations going crazy, but personally, it made a huge impact.''
■ Justin Wise, George Calombaris, Adam D'Sylva, Mark Briggs, Josh Murphy, Michael Fox, Nicolas Poelaert, Daniel Wilson, Emma Mackay and Dallas Cuddy will each prepare a dish at the Where Are They Now? Dinner at The Point on Friday, April 12. $180 a person. Bookings on 03 9682 5566 or thepointalbertpark.com.au.
■ Entries for the 2013 The Age Young Chef of the Year open on Tuesday and close on April 23. Email goodfoodguide@theage.com.au
* This particular competition is only open to chefs working in Victoria.
